Thursday 24th July, Nantes to Paris

Had a relaxing start to the morning and headed over to the train station.

We had things much better sorted for this trip, waiting till we got to our carriage before folding the bikes. Not much luggage room on the TGV but the conductor helped us sort it out. We tracked a bit of the trip using google maps. Amazing to see how fast we were traveling through the countryside. We had lunch at a cafe down the road from Montparnase station where we arrived and headed off to cycle to the Eiffel Tower. Traffic was a bit crazy but nothing compared to Sydney!

Had the obligatory photo in front to the tower then headed off back to Antony to Olivier and Isabelle's. Isabelle had their baby daughter Paola on the 10th of July so we also met the new member of the family. A gorgeous little thing who is very good and sleeps through most of the night.

We had a picnic dinner in the local park, Parc de Sceaux with some of Isabelle's colleagues. It was another very hot day and the picnic in the park lovely.

Wednesday 23rd July, le Migron to Nantes

Great last night camping it didn't rain so we were able to pack up a dry tent. Much nicer return journey back to Nantes than the trip out. Firstly along the canal, probably due to the fact we had no wind and it was not hot. We stopped at Coueron to buy some lunch and stopped in a park by the Loire to eat it. 

Many other cyclists and locals had the same idea. We passed many other couples on the way as well as families. Today we saw a family cycling, the Dad had a trailer with the family dog two sons on their own bikes close by and the Mum had another son on a tag a long behind her bike. ( tag alongs are an attachment for a regular child's bike to be used like a tandem with an adults bike)

As we got closer to Nantes we had to cycle through the industrial area and it was getting warmer. Not very pleasant but you have to put the industry somewhere, reminded us a bit like cycling around Port Kembla and Cringila. 

We made it into Nantes in the early afternoon and had a look around the old docklands which they converted in 2007 to a cultural area with a huge 3 story carousel.

And a giant mechanical elephant that can actually walk.

We then checked into our hotel opposite the train station and headed out to look around Nantes on foot. We came across the cathedral of St Peter and St Paul and visited the crypts where they have a display set up of the cathedral over its lifetime and pictures one of which was it burning and in ruins in 1944. This is it today.

With the tomb of Francois the II and Anne the duchesse of Brittany

We had dinner at an Irish pub and luckily escaped a downpour before heading back to the hotel via the Dukes Chateau that has recently been rebuilt.

Tuesday 22nd July, St Brevin les Pins to Le Migron

Had breakfast in the tent then packed up and headed off down the coast along the Velocéan route as far as le Menhir then turned left and headed along a back road to St Père en Retz. The day started hazy, reminding us of the har in Scotland but it soon burnt off. We were glad to be in the countryside once more and happy we had the GPS as we are now doing this sans (without) guide. We came across a memorial to what looks like an American plane crash from WWII.

This was in the middle of a small group of houses surrounded by fields. We rode on to St Père en Retz and as we entered the tow came across a Lavoir - an outdoor laundry built in 1871. We stopped in to have a look then went into town to have another huge 11.50€ 4 course lunch. After lunch we headed back to the Lavoir to have a rest before continuing on to our overnight campground.

We reached the campground by 3pm, set up the tent, had showers and relaxed. David cleaned the bikes, which had become pretty dirty over the last couple of weeks, in preparation for our journey home. We knew this campground had a fridge so had bought a bottle of Saumur sparkling before we left St Brevin les Pins and were able to have it chilled before dinner.

The day ended up being quite warm and Catriona was able to wash clothes and have them dry before dinner. Another great day. 28km cycled today.

Monday 21st July, St Brevin-les-Pins

Had a lovely sleep in this morning didn't get up till 9am! Woke to a beautiful sunny day. We set off for a walk to the point, not far from where we had lunch yesterday, where we found another art installation. Note the size of the children standing near the serpents head to get a perspective of how big it is.

We then headed into the town about a 2kms. Stopped at a Brasserie for a beer/ coffee in town and browsed through some shops before continuing our walk along the promenade. We also saw the Belgian couple with their son again while we were having our drinks. We walked way out along the beach to reach the water for a photo standing in the Atlantic. 

We also had a look at one of the fishing structures that feature in this part of the coastline.

Here is David taking a photo of one. We also enjoyed a picnic lunch before continuing our walk along the promenade to the end of St Breven les Pins. By the time we made it back to the campground it was 5pm. David went to the supermarket for food and wine and Catriona stayed back at the tent to read o book on her iPhone. After dinner we watched Notting Hill. A great way to spend a relaxing day.

Sunday 20th July, le Migron to Saint Brevin les Pins

Woke this morning to the sound of rain coming down hard on the tent. A lovely sound, but not one you want to hear when you have a tent to pack and 25km to ride. We were both feeling tired and thought it might be time for a rest day but as there was nothing at our campground we decided to ride the 2km in to Frossay hoping there would be a shop open to buy some food. We found a basic shop and bought some food as all shops shut at 12 noon on a Sunday. On the return journey we decided to pack up and ride to the end of the Loire a Velo trail. It was tough going riding into a headwind. After 11km the rain started to come down heavy just as we made it to another sculpture at Paimbœuf. Luckily this sculpture had some shelter.

When the rain eased we set off again zig zagging our way along the light traffic backroads. As we got closer to the end the weather started to improve. We stopped to take a picture of the bridge over to St Nazaire which is where the guide book says you need to get the train from but there is no way to get over by bike. Luckily we have our return train ticket back to Paris from Nantes.

We were both so happy when we made it to the end and there was a seafood restaurant nearby where we celebrated our accomplishment with a lovely fish mornay dish and a glass of white wine/beer.

We managed to find a campground with a tent pitch close to the water where we have the sound of the Ocean and a lovely breeze to dry our washing. 😄 we booked for 2 nights and are going to enjoy the long awaited rest day.

Saturday 19th July, La Varenne to le Migron

We had a very late start to the day as watching the movie last night kept us up late. It poured down overnight and there was a huge thunderstorm with thunder that seemed to roll on forever. We chatted to a couple from Newcastle, NSW, Australia. They only started out yesterday and are heading in the opposite direction from us. We chatted with Chris and Bernie as Chris was cooking quesidia for dinner as we spoke. We set off after 10am and it was a fairly ordinary ride. We didn't stop for morning tea today but rode directly to Nantes. We were both feeling very tired! Maybe because of riding for almost 3 weeks with only one non riding day or maybe due to the 2 bottles of red wine and a large bottle of beer we drank yesterday.

When we first arrived in Nantes we noticed it looked very modern, totally different from all the other cities we have visited along the Loire. We looked for the train station we would be leaving from next week. And then had a look at the hotels in the area and booked one for the night before we leave. 

We had pad Thai for lunch at a Thai restaurant then headed off towards the coast. The route took us past the industrial area, not very pleasant riding. We also passed another squalid gypsy camp in the middle of the industrial area.( we passed one on the way in to Nantes with burnt out cars lining the way!). Once we left Nantes the scenery improved and we were cycling along the Loire again. We came across this house that seemed to have been built in the wrong place, however there was a sign that had something to do with an art trail and we were not quite sure.

We stopped at the Carrefour supermarket in Coueron to buy supplies for dinner before heading for the ferry to take us to the other side of the Loire.

We then had a 14km ride along the old Canal Maritime de la Basse Loire. At the first lock there was another art instillation that made us think that the house we saw was just art and not an actual house. A full sized yacht arching over the end of the lock!

The ride along the canal was peaceful with minimal traffic however we were riding into a headwind and our legs started to feel heavy. We were glad once we made it to the campground and even happier after setting up the tent and having a shower. We cycled 55km today and are now only 22km away from the end/beginning of the Loire a velo trail.😄

Friday 18th July, Ingrandes to La Varenne

After finishing last night we walked down across the sandbank to have our first paddle in the Loire.

Before retiring for the night.

Had a hobbit start to the day. Breakfast of an apricot and a nectarine as we broke camp. Then 9km down the road we stopped for 2nd breakfast at St Florent le Veil.

This town was the centre of the war in Vendée in the 1700's. Still a fishing port we saw a few fishermen  both on the shore and in their boats. We set off again down the Loire and noticed the agriculture had changed from mostly crops of wheat, corn and sunflowers to cattle. We could also smell the difference. We stopped another 10km on for morning tea at Liré which was a detour off the Loire a velo trail up a steep hill. Well worth the effort for the view and the cheap coffee/hot chocolate only 2.80€ for both plus €1.50 for David's chocolate eclair. The lady serving in the patisserie asked where we were from she was very surprised when  I told her Australia and just as surprised when we said we were doing the whole Loire a Velo route. She was Japanese and only spoke a little English but we managed to communicate O.K.

We rode on to what was supposed to be our overnight stop at Oudon and had another great value 11€ 4 course lunch with wine and skipping the coffee. This time we knew the entree buffet was the entree so didn't eat too much. The main we had steak and frites with salad followed by cheese and a desert Buffett. David had 2 serves! We rode up to see the 14th century tower and had a rest under its walls before heading over the river and up 1km to Champtoceaux with its magnificent view over the Loire. 

We had a walk through the town which was a walled medieval city and has a few of its watch towers still in place.

Excellent free wheel back down to river level and through more grazing lad and on towards where we were expecting to stay at St Simon. We ended up passing the point on our map where the campground in both St Simon and Mauves sur Loire were supposed to be so ended up doing a 20km round trip back to one we had passed in La Varenne. Put the ten up, had dinner and wrote up the blog before retiring to watch Evil Roy Slade.

Thursday 17th July, Angers to Ingrandes

Leisurely start to the day. packed up and on our way at 8:45 and the tent was dry. Retraced our cycle from yesterday back to Bouchemaine then headed down the Loire. Our first stop for the day was a detour out to an island to see a church built on a rock on the orders of Louis XI to thank the heavens for being saved from a shipwreck. This island in the Loire receives flood waters at least every decade of  between 4 and 6 meters. They had historical photos of the town under water on display.

Heading back to the main route we stopped to have morning tea and Catriona got a flat tire. What exceptional timing and a great view to change a flat from.

Unfortunately the cafe was not serving! We were not the only ones to get turned away, and we have come across this quite a lot during our visit! We had our water and some nuts and set off on our way. We stopped at the next main town to buy some salad for lunch and had a lovely picnic and local bottle of wine down by the river. 

This was our view, not doing too well with the exposure today. In the shopping centre they had a thermometer that read 32 degrees. Luckily our picnic spot by the river was under the trees with a cool breeze coming off the river. After lunch we headed off toward Montjean sur Loire and came across a cafe we had to stop in at. It was Le Lenin Cafe and was full of Lenin and soviet memorabilia. It was in an old stone farm house and was lovely and cool inside.

After our cool drink it was back on the road. We decided to go past our planned overnight spot of Montjean sur Loire and made it another 4 km down the road to a lovely quiet Municipal campground.

Wednesday 16th July, Gennes to Angers

Woke early packed up had a banana and set off by 7am. It was quite cool and we started off with our jackets on but it only took a few km to warm up. We stopped at a picnic area in St Rémy la Varenne to have breakfast overlooking the 12 century Benadictine priory.

We then continued on our way we "cut an erratic path through the rivers former meanders" according to our guide book. We stopped for a coffee/ hot chocolate at a little bar/restaurant in La Daguenière where we had to make the decision on wether to head straight into Angers or head for the campground. We decided to do the later which enabled us to set up the tent to dry and do some washing. On the way we saw a couple with their young son who we have seen quite a number of times over the last week so we decided to talk with them. It turns out they are from Belgium and started in Orleans and are also heading for the coast as well. David took their photo and we said we may meet again on the way. At the campground it was already hot so we knew the washing would all be dry when we returned to the campground.

We had a great lunch at a bar close to the campground in St Gemmes sur Loire. The waitress didn't speak English but we managed to get by although we thought the buffet was our lunch but in fact was a buffet entree. She brought over what we thought was 2 bottles of water one in a carafe and one in a wine bottle. It turns out the one in the wine bottle was red wine. So we had our large salad entree + pork chop with mustard sauce, salad and mashed potato! then cheese platter then a desert. Washed down with a couple of glasses of red and some water. All this for 11€ each!

We then set off for the cointreau distillery on the other side of Angers. Thank goodness for the GPS which had us on bike paths on back roads most of the way. When we arrived we found we had just missed the last tour by 20 minutes but the guy let us join in and as the tour was in French we got an ipad to to guide us in English. The tour finished with a tasting, neat, with ice and a cocktail.

We then set off to see the sights of Angers riding through cobble stone streets which was difficult. The main points of interest were: the Chateâu Angers, Montée Saint Maurice which is a cathedral, the Pont de Verdun. We had a lovely dinner of buckwheat crepes at a creperie.

The sped back to the campground via the Parc de Balzac, a 14km trip. Total km for the day 66km. Finishing writing this at 10:40pm as it is just getting dark! Huge day

Tuesday 15th July, Saumur to Gennes

Another sunny morning and we were able to pack away a dry tent. We didn't wake till 8:30am this morning as the fireworks and concert across the river kept us awake till after midnight. All good as we knew we only had a short ride today.

After setting off we had a ride through some of the old streets of Saumur then found a large shopping centre with the help of some locals. We bought a salad for lunch and then headed off along the trail once more. We had a steep hill to climb up to St Hillaire-St Florent to keep us off the main road. We passed the national equestrian school and the trail then took us back down to the Loire.

We stopped along the Loire to have our picnic lunch before making it to the historical towns of Chênehutte-Trèves-Cunault. We found a historical heritage itinerary in English so decided to lock up or bikes and take the walk. First stop was a Gallo-Roman temple from the 2nd century, only the foundations remain, next the remains of a Gallo-Roman dwelling further up the hill. The track to get up to it was very steep and Catriona's calf muscles were burning half way up! Other points of interest were the remains of an 18th century windmill, a Priory and the Notre-Dame de la Prée des Tuffeaux church. 

After the strenuous walk in the heat we had a rest before mounting the bikes and heading off for Trèves. Along the way we saw a restaurant in a cave that sold cold drinks so we decided to go in to get out of the heat. You could also take a tour of the cave where they had not only the restaurant but a cellar, a. gift club as well as growing mushrooms. We found the reception in a wine tasting room. We had our drinks in the cave and found out you could do wine tastings. So after our beer/ coffee we sampled 3 reds and a sweet white which David said Veronica would have loved.

We bought 2 different reds and set off out into the heat and on our way. We passed through the other two towns with their medieval buildings. In Gennes we found the campground and checked in then set off to get some dinner before settling down to enjoy a mug of wine from one of the bottles we bought today, a Saumur-Champigny from Cabernet grapes. 

We finished the bottle after dinner with some 85% cacao chocolate overlooking the Loire. It was a very enjoyable day cycling through old villages on the banks of the Loire. Total km cycled today 24km.

Tuesday 15th July, Saumur to Gennes

Another sunny morning and we were able to pack away a dry tent. We didn't wake till 8:30am this morning as the fireworks and concert across the river kept us awake till after midnight. All good as we knew we only had a short ride today.

After setting off we had a ride through some of the old streets of Saumur then found a large shopping centre with the help of some locals. We bought a salad for lunch and then headed off along the trail once more. We had a steep hill to climb up to St Hillaire-St Florent to keep us off the main road. We passed the national equestrian school and the trail then took us back down to the Loire.

We stopped along the Loire to have our picnic lunch before making it to the historical towns of Chênehutte-Trèves-Cunault. We found a historical heritage itinerary in English so decided to lock up or bikes and take the walk. First stop was a Gallo-Roman temple from the 2nd century, only the foundations remain, next the remains of a Gallo-Roman dwelling further up the hill. The track to get up to it was very steep and Catriona's calf muscles were burning half way up! Other points of interest were the remains of an 18th century windmill, a Priory and the Notre-Dame de la Prée des Tuffeaux church. 

After the strenuous walk in the heat we had a rest before mounting the bikes and heading off for Trèves. Along the way we saw a restaurant in a cave that sold cold drinks so we decided to go in to get out of the heat. You could also take a tour of the cave where they had not only the restaurant but a cellar, a. gift club as well as growing mushrooms. We found the reception in a wine tasting room. We had our drinks in the cave and found out you could do wine tastings. So after our beer/ coffee we sampled 3 reds and a sweet white which David said Veronica would have loved.

We bought 2 different reds and set off out into the heat and on our way. We passed through the other two towns with their medieval buildings. In Gennes we found the campground and checked in then set off to get some dinner before settling down to enjoy a mug of wine from one of the bottles we bought today, a Saumur-Champigny from Cabernet grapes. 

We finished the bottle after dinner with some 85% cacao chocolate overlooking the Loire. It was a very enjoyable day cycling through old villages on the banks of the Loire. Total km cycled today 24km.

Monday 14th July, Chinon to Saumur

What a lovely day we woke up to in the chateâu. All our things were dry (my sleeping bag and pillow among other things got wet through our panniers in the thunderstorm. Cat) We had a huge breakfast before setting off at around 10am. At around 10:50 we stopped so Cat could log on to Uni at 7:02 pm Sydney time to enrol in next semesters Biochem tutorial and also buy some fruit and veg from the supermarket for lunch.

We then made our way up to Fontevraud Abbaye. It was a long climb and our legs were hurting after all the up hills of the previous day. We eventually made it at around 12:30pm and headed straight in.

Fontevraud Abbaye was the largest monastic building in Western Christendom, 14ha. It was abandoned and turned into a prison between the revolution and 2nd 1/2 of the 20th century but since then it is being slowly restored. In the main abbey Richard the lionhearted is buried along with his sister-in-law and mother and father (king Henry II Plantagenet of England).

Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine and King Henry in background and Richard in foreground with John Lacklands wife.

We walked through the grounds an read about the history as most of the information plaques were in both French and English. It it was amazing that this place was originally set up in the early 1100s as a utopia, but ended up as a prison which only started to close in 1963 and the last prisoner of this maximum security goal left in 1985!

We had a picnic lunch in the square overlooking the Abbaye before setting off for Saumur. We had a lovely afternoon cycling through the vineyards even though parts of it were very steep climbs it was worth the effort to see what we saw. We came across more Hobbit holes or maybe they were for dwarfs as they are built into the mountains!

We arrived in Saumur at around 5:30 and found the perfect spot to enjoy a drink overlooking the Castle and the town.

A German couple stopped us to ask where we were from Germany or England? When we told them we were from Australia they were surprised and we chatted about the bikes an where we were cycling. We then headed off to check in to the campground. As today is a National holiday many of the shops were closed. Luckily the campground reception sold wine as we like to have a drink from the region we are staying in, tonight it is a sparking method traditional from Saumur 6:50€! We had dinner by the tent before showering and retiring for the night to listen to the open air concert for the festivities, across the river. 34km today.

Total distance so far ( when I have had the GPS turned on) 679km, maximum speed 48.6 km/hr.